Charleston and Savannah

First, let me tell you that our time in Charleston and Savannah was as daytrippers. We visited each city twice. I’m sure actually staying in each city would impart a truer flavor of place. Also, February would be quite different than spring or summer. However, I did come away with certain impressions. Both Cities have large active ports and architectually striking bridges.

Savannah’s main bridge over the Savannah River


The Ravenal Bridge between Charleston and Mount Pleasant

We took a guided walking tour of Charleston; we rode a trolley with narration in Savannah, really only exploring on foot River Street, Ellis Square, City Market, Forsyth Park, and part of Bay Street. The two approaches meant more opportunity to see up-close details in Charleston but a broader viewing of more of Savannah.

Charleston lives up to its reputation of charm and graciousness; Savannah was friendlier. Both have long histories, and one is impressed by the age of many buildings and tombstones. I felt a sense of “we-are-better-than-you” pride in Charleston; a folksiness and “come be a part of us” in Savannah.

Some of the differences are probably rooted in the early days. Charles Towne founded in 1670 was overseen by king-appointed Lord Proprietors. Large plantations in the surrounding countryside depended on slave labor. Interestingly enough, the early crops were rice, tea, indigo. Strong relations with Barbados resulted in importation of rum. Later, many sons of wealthy Barbados landowners came to Charleston to establish businesses as only the first son would inherit the land. Many of these lived in what is now Rainbow Row near the docks.
    

Savannah, on the other hand, when founded in 1733 established wards of residential and commercial buildings around 24 public squares on a grid. The idea was to have tradesmen and shopkeepers and outlying farms. Grand plantations were not the norm. Georgia’s charter outlawed slaves, distilled spirits, Catholics, and lawyers. Laws allowing these forbidden items were later passed, but initially the social demographic and culture differed from Charleston.

Our first visit to Savannah started with the Colonial Faire and Muster at Wormsloe in the outskirts of the city. This historic site preserves the ruins of the home of Noble Jones, who arrived with Oglethorpe in 1733. Mr. Jones proved invaluable in scouting for Spanish encroachment and in survey work. When slavery was legalized, he expanded his holdings, which passed to his descendants thru 10 generations. Costumed interpreters and re-enactors provide demonstrations of colonial life at this state-run site, though this special event included guests from South Carolina and Georgia groups.
  



After lunch, we went downtown and walked River Street, rode the free ferry across the Savannah River and back, and ate ice cream sitting in the lovely sunshine. We watched people enjoying a nice Saturday along the river and going to a cheerleading competition at the Convention Center.  We also toured aboard the ship Peacemaker docked that weekend in Savannah.

   

Our car was parked near Ellis Square, one of the surviving 22 squares. Ellis is not so park-like, having been redone in 2010 with an interactive fountain. We looked thru shops at adjoining City Market.

Our second time we rode the trolley. We hopped off to have lunch at Paula Deen’s Lady and Sons restaurant; caught another trolley to Forsyth Park with touches of spring popping out.
     
Bordering the park is a Victorian-era neighborhood.
   

We did head Savannah direction one Sunday, but out to Tybee Island (disappointed), Fort Pulaski (see photos below), and to the Mighty Eighth Air Force Museum in Pooler, a suburb of Savannah.

    

        



Mighty Eighth:
   

Charleston offers many guided walking tours. They average $20, but are worth the price. One would be overwhelmed without some shepherding. Carriage tours are an alternative.

      

    


    

Our second time to Charleston was actually to nearby Mount Pleasant. We toured the U.S.S. Yorktown carrier at Patriot's Point Naval and Maritime Museum.
 

 

Then we drove to Boone Hall Plantation, which is still a working plantation, though with crops different than cotton. They do have a small patch of cotton for educational purposes. A cold wind had chilled us all day so we skipped the open-air coach tour of the grounds, but we especially enjoyed the Gullah Culture Presentation. The sea island language derived from West African dialects and English. Because of the isolation of these groups after the Civil War, the language and culture have been preserved by the ancestors. Sweetgrass baskets are the noted folk art.

    

 

 

So much to do and see in Charleston and Savannah. If we return, perhaps a B & B would be nice, but we were glad to make these outings from Hilton Head Island.